290 The Francis A. Drexel Family
trough of the sea, now high on a wave. Indescribable sensations.
The vessel reached, we could not board her from the side on which
we were, so under the stern we rocked. A ladder was lowered.
A Spanish woman in a boat ahead tried to scramble up, but was
knocked around by the motion. For a few moments we were
knocked around, then leaving the Spanish woman to her fate,
ordered a retreat for shore. A sleep, a walk, and a good dinner,
followed by a nod ended the third day of terror.
Dec. 16th. Haunting shops. Rain. Markets' abundance of
vegetables and fruits. Moorish markets for eggs and poultry.
Moorish streets. Too rough for steamers to go to Tangiers. In
explicable mystery of all steamers' movements. Rain, rain, rain.
A moist drive through the Alameda and through the town.
Dec. 17th. Cacti with flowers like red-hot poker along sides
of Alameda. Explanation of rock. Galleries cut in solid rock, St.
George's Hall. Walking to observatory we picked among the
rocks, white narcissus heavy with perfume, sweet alyssum, mari
golds, yellow oxalis, wild lavender, two vines—one whose flowers
resemble those of bladderwort, the other a species of pitcher plant,
a small variety of Jack-in-the-pulpit, besides several other kinds
of flowers. From observatory fine view on all sides. Ceuta eighteen
miles away. St. Michael's Cave whose stalactites were seen by a
blue light. Waiting, waiting, all afternoon for news of boat. Men
hanging over wall with telescopes to catch sight of her. Uncertainty
as to whether tender would make last trip to Algeciras. Telegram
to agent at Algeciras unanswered. Conflicting statements of dif
ferent agents. Sudden arrival of tender and instant return with
out warning. Determined at all costs to reach Algeciras, we rushed
from hotel and took cab to Mole. The city gate had just closed
and permission had to be sought to pass through, once through,
we could not re-enter until next morning. Kind officer who ob
tained permission for us to return to city until 10:30 P.M. Wee
boat and four men to carry us over the bay. Waves tranquil, and
journey performed by oar and sail, without adventure, in an hour
and a half. Seizure of our luggage by Custom House officers at
Algeciras. Locked up for the night. Owing to landlord's inter
position, our effects were rescued and after a frugal meal we were
introduced into brick floor bed rooms. No boat. No news.
Dec. 18th. Waiting, waiting. A dismal walk en route in
vited into a graveyard, did not raise our spirits, neither did the